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GROUND RULES FOR CHOOSING A SUIT

Aside from using the search bar which is fine-tuned to pull up most any subject in menswear–we’ve prepared this series as a gentle guide for those taking their first steps into the world of personal elegance.

To begin choosing your next suit, determine whether you prefer:

DOUBLE BREASTED, SINGLE-BREASTED, OR THREE-PIECE SUIT ?

Even if the classic two-piece, single breasted jacket has been ruling for the better part of the last two decades, since a few years, we are witnessing a bit of a stylistic renaissance in the world of refined men’s style.
The double-breasted suit is coming back stronger than ever, and many waistcoats are finding their way into many-a-man’s wardrobe.
In fact, the design possibilities have never been as large as they are today. This small revolution requires a more extensive knowledge of a few fundamental notions, if only to help you feel as though you’ve made the right suit choice.

The Double-Breasted Suit

For many, it is the quintessential elegant man’s suit: it has an undeniable aura, thanks to a striking visual appearance. The double-breasted suit is by nature, very structured and clear-cut.
Typically worn in its 6 on 2 version (that is, 6 buttons, two of which are active) or 6 on 1 (6 buttons with one active), the suit should always feature ample peak lapels.

By essence, the double-breasted coat is more formal than the single-breasted coat. It should always be worn with buttons fastened, even when seated (except, of course, in some regions of Italy) – and never with a waistcoat.

A very elegant piece indeed, with a unique flavor. However, it is a piece that has to be chosen wisely, as each approximation will show itself more than with a single-breasted coat. Moreover, each morphological rule should be respected with scrupulous care.

If you are tall and slim, the double-breasted suit is an excellent choice : it puts a strong emphasis on the horizontal plane (thanks to the 6 button structure) and has the tendency of enlarging the shoulder line.
If you are short in stature or stout however, the double-breasted should be considered with care – the excess of fabric compared to the single-breasted, as well as the emphasis on the horizontal lines will tend to accentuate any excess of thickness. A must-have piece nonetheless, but to be considered with care and education.

The Single-Breasted Suit

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The most common style – however, the single-breasted suit truly has benefited from the great men’s style comeback of previous years. Peak lapels are becoming more common (whereas it used to be a ‘double-breasted specific trait’), and waistcoats, whether single or double-breasted, are also back in full force.
You can’t go wrong with a beautifully cut single-breasted coat. It has the advantage of lengthening the silhouette, all the while, narrowing the waistline. Stout people should be well-advised to choose a single-breasted suit that is particularly well-adjusted, for if chosen too large in size, a single-breasted suit can accentuate a strong body to a fault.

Besides, a well-adjusted single-breasted suit will be especially comfortable and allow for great freedom of movement, as it able to move naturally with the body. This suit is usually worn with two buttons in town and with one button for evening events. The three button variant can be worn by those with a disposition toward ‘a vintage look’, but has almost disappeared from the mainstream.

However, the 3 on 2 version (3 roll, 2 working buttons), where the first button is inserted in the lapel roll, is on the rise, especially among the Italian style lovers; it is said that when a button is inserted into a lapel roll, it can make for a nicer “roll” on the lapel because the tailor finds it easier to work with the material.

The single-breasted suit is also very versatile, as it can be worn open, which is ideal when indoors, or when it is hot outside.

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